Latin cuisines research team returns from Brazil with regional flavors and manioc

Panko Crusted Oyster with Tapioca Pearls Macerated in Red Wine and Acai juice; tapioca, a highly versatile starch, is a product of manioc flour

Brazil has a rich and varied culinary heritage reflecting cultural influences from indigenous South America, Europe, Africa, Asia, Italy, and the Middle East. Cookbooks describing Brazilian cuisine provide a cursory overview of some of the country's common culinary themes, but a more critical analysis of the regional traditions and techniques has not been described. The need for a more in depth understanding of the cuisines of Brazil brought a CIA research team, to document the culinary culture of Northeast (Bahia) and Southeast (Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo) Brazil. Culinary techniques and iconic dishes were documented through interviews with cuisine experts in country, photography, video recordings of traditional techniques, and recipe collection. The results from this work will contribute to the record of traditional Brazilian culinary techniques, and provide valuable information for culinary educators and industry professionals who want to better understand these flavor profiles and adapt them for applications on their menus.

(a, b) Manioc is peeled in preparation for making flour

Throughout their trip, the research team found manioc, a root of the plant Manihot esculenta, A.K.A. cassava, was a fundamental component of the cuisine. Either alone or as an ingredient incorporated into other dishes, in both savory and sweet applications, with fruits, vegetables, or meat, manioc lends it's flavor and texture. The group documented the production of this gluten free flour from harvest of the root through the milling, mashing, extraction, and toasting process.

There are 2 primary types of manioc commonly grown and processed in Brazil: the sweet (yucca) and bitter (malanga) which is toxic unless processed.

(c) and (d) manioc roots are grated into a moist pulp

(e) Grated manioc is collected in a trough, and then (f) pressed to remove moisture and toxins.

The pressed meal is (g) sifted and (h) toasted until fragrant and dry

The cassava flour (tapioca) is (i) mixed with coconut to form small cakes called beiju that are cooked on the iapunha and (j) served to celebrate the completion of the making of the cassava flour - farinhada.

The research team, which includes Elizabeth Kossick and Illiana De La Vega (from the San Antonio campus), Almir DaFonseca (Brazilian native, and Chef instructor at the Greystone campus), and Tom Kief (Hyde Park Campus), is preparing a manuscript on their findings with a focus on manioc, and its culinary functions in traditional and fine dining contexts.

(k) Farinha sold at the market in Rio de Janero; (l) fried manioc or aipim; (m) manioc cous-cous; (n) manioc soup with carne seca.

The group has also shared their findings from this trip with the rest of culinary and food service industry through presentations at industry and academic conferences, and lectures incorporated into The CIA's curriculum. Presentations at conferences have included:

• "Latin comfort food: Yuca and the cooking of Brazil, Mexico, and Puerto Rico, dedicated to the use of manioc in the Americas", Latin Flavors American Kitchens retreat, The Culinary Institute of America, San Antonio, TX, October 16, 2009.
• "Culinary Institute of America: Latin Cuisine Initiatives, and the Future of the CIA's Latin and Brazilian Curriculum", Universidade Ruy Barbosa, Salvador, Bahia Brazil, December, 2009.
• "Cuisines of Brazil: an Overview of Brazilian Iconic Dishes and Ingredients", American Culinary Federation Conference, Albuquerque, New Mexico, Feb 6, 2010.
• "Reproducing Brazilian Food in the U.S." at Prazeres da Mesa conference Sao Paulo, Brazil. Scheduled for October 2010.

Lectures for degree and certificate courses at the CIA that have been developed from data collected during the field study cover topics including:

• The History and Culture of Brazil
• Iconic ingredients of Brazilian Cuisines - Native and Non-Native
• Brazilian Flavor Profiles and Classic Dishes

Some examples of class demos developed from the field study data have included:

• Moqueca
• Feijoada
• Churrasco
• Curing of Brazilian carne seca
• Use of annatto in Brazilian cooking (in the form of colorau)
• Versatility of manioc: chips, fries, boiled manioc, puree

-C.R. Loss