Chef Cheng studies the flavor of huajiao and its role in Sichuan cuisine

Chef Shirley Cheng, Professor of Culinary Arts, returns from China with samples of huajiao (A.K.A. Sichuan peppercorn) and is studying its sensory properties and acceptance amongst American consumers.

Zanthoxylum schinifolium (left) and bungeanum (middle), the botanical names for green and red Sichuan pepper corns, respectively. Close up (right) of the skin of the huajiao fruit and its oil containing lumps.

Huajiao (species: Zanthoxylum bungeanum and schinifolium) - more commonly known as the Chinese peppercorn, has been used in food and medicine in China since 220 BC. Hundreds of millions of people use huajiao, a distant relative of citrus fruits, as a spice on a daily basis in their cooking. Its perfume like aroma, is sublime, and it has unique tingling flavor properties (very similar to the Sichuan Button). However, huajiao and its culinary functions are not well known amongst American chefs and consumers.

This gap in knowledge motivated Professor Cheng to apply for an MRFDI grant to conduct research on this essential Sichuan spice. Her objectives were to:

• document the cultivation, postharvest processing, and culinary usage of huajiao in Sichuan province, and
• evaluate huajiao's sensory properties amongst American consumers.

Red Sichuan peppercorns, also known as "huajiao", (a) being harvested, (b) processed by hand, (c) husks - the culinary portion are separated from the seeds, (d) sold in the market.

Professor Cheng combined culinary, ethnographic, and sensory science techniques to collect both qualitative and quantitative data on huajiao production and culinary applications. She traveled to China on two occasions, collected huajiao samples, and conducted structured interviews with agricultural experts, chefs, historians, and Sichuan consumers. Video recordings of interviews were transcribed, translated, and analyzed for common themes highlighting the connections between huajiao usage, Sichuan culinary hertiage, and culture. During her trip she collected 23 huajiao samples (whole, ground, and oil infusions) and many recipes reflecting traditional and modern applications of huajiao in Sichuan cuisine.

In her focus groups Chef Cheng found that American consumers were unfamiliar with, and at times "afraid" of the flavor profiles of traditional Sichuan dishes consumed on a daily basis. However, liking tests with chicken broth and noodles that were seasoned with a traditional Mala profile (huajiao and chilies) were more liked compared to plain broth and noodles (no Sichuan seasonings). This suggests that the neophobia (Pliner, 1992) observed during the focus groups can be mitigated by incorporating Sichuan flavor patterns in familiar food mediums, such as chicken broth and noodles.

Tengjiao chicken; "green hujiao" provides the numbing or Ma character, plus mild citrus and "tea-like" aromas, and the red chilies provide the la or heating sensation.

The popularity of Chinese regional cuisine is increasing in the U.S. (Buss, 2009). Opportunities to develop foods for the expanding Chinese market are also increasing (Gale, 2005). However, case studies suggest that a more comprehensive understanding of the culture and cuisine of emerging markets is needed in order to accomplish a successful product launch in new markets such as China (Ko, 2008). This is further complicated by the fact that regional cuisine styles and preferences in the high end and quick serve segments continually evolve, as was described in these stories on NPR (Chengdu marathon meal; Sichuan burger at McDonald's) and observed by Chef Cheng during her trip.

Aromatic cod fish baked in huajiao and chilies.

By combining sensory studies, focus groups, and culinary ethnography, chef Cheng is creating a valuable tool to help chefs and product developers successfully integrate these cuisines into new product and menu development. In addition, she has generated educational materials for culinary students that will help describe the culinary traditions and flavor profiles of regional Chinese cuisine.

Chef Cheng recently presented her results in a poster titled, "Huajiao production, culinary applications in Sichuan cuisine, and acceptance amongst American consumers and chefs" at the Research Chefs Association's annual conference in Phoenix. She is also working with Michael Nestrud ('05) to develop "perceptual flavor maps" of the aromas of 13 different huajiao samples. Chef Cheng has written an article that further explores the culinary traditions of Sichuan, and recipes using huajiao, that will be published in the next issue of the CIA's alumni journal, Mise En Place.

References:

Buss, D. (2009) Quick Serve's Sleeping Tiger. QSR Magazine, December, http://www.qsrmagazine.com/articles/features/135/asian_cuisine-1.phtml

Gale, F. (2005) Commercialization of food consumption in rural China. Economic Research Report, No. 8, U.S.D.A.

Pliner, P. (1992) Development of a scale to measure the trait of food neophobia in humans. Appetite, 19:105-120

Ko, S. (2008) McDonalds: Is China Lovin' It? Asia Case Research Center, University of Hong Kong